Nottingham; Pale Ale and Pale Imitations

Heresy it may be for a Beer Blogger, but when I think of Nottingham, I think of the Football Club – Forest*, that is. A team I have massive respect for, given their pedigree and our tenuous link with Brian Clough – a man who was as disastrous a manager Leeds United have ever had as a Genius as Forest ever had. A man who they could do with at the helm now as they flounder in the lower reaches of The Championship.

Maybe it’s because I have a bit of a blind spot when it comes to beers from Nottingham. One brewery that I had a fleeting encounter with a few years ago was Nottingham (as simple as it gets, no?) – their Rock Mild proving to be a home run from the left field at a beer festival a few years ago. Picked on a total whim, Rock Mild stunned me and my drinking partner (in the circular nature of this tale, A Forest fan, as it happens) into reverential silence; smooth, satisfyingly dark and with a massive burst of Blackcurrant to finish it off. Nottingham, brewing out of The Plough Inn, went into my mental vault of ‘Great Beers’.

Fast forward to this year, and a Christmas present from a relative, now a native of Nottingham – behind enemy lines, flying Leeds United’s Peacock flag over the River Trent. In his quest to grab me a ‘local beer’, a bottle of Extra Pale Ale is unwrapped – and it made my day.

Extra Pale Ale (4%abv) is one of those beers that we’ve all had a thousand times, yet still maintains a distinct identity. My bottle tasted so fresh, so spritzily full of life, that the aroma practically leapt out of the glass. Peaches, all peaches – a fruit-basket of sunshine on Christmas day. Drinking further, the beer’s sweet, digestive-led body sweetened up with a honeyed note that gave it a supremely long finish. Peaches and Honey. If that’s not going to work in a Pale Ale, then…

Yes, it’s uncomplicated. It’s basic. But it’s done well, and the whole thing just works. Two beers tasted, two knockouts from a small Brewery operating out of a pub in Nottingham. No buzz-words, no marketing. In fact, their gorgeous labels hark to times past rather than crowded futures.

It seems that the next time I visit, I need to go to The Plough and try the rest of the range. As for Forest, well…maybe doing the basics -but well – would pay off for them this season. I hope so. One thing’s for sure, however – the next time I think of Nottingham, a pale imitation of a European footballing giant won’t be the only thing that will spring to mind.

* Sorry, County supporters. Nottingham drinkers- where should I go and what should I drink when visiting? 

Williams Bros Caesar Augustus / Durham White Stout

Probably best known for nearly winning the increasingly-more-interesting-every-year Sainsbury’s Beer Hunt this year, Caesar Augustus (4.1%abv) is Williams Brother’s latest beer; and it carries an interesting label.

Declaring itself to be a ‘Lager-IPA Hybrid’, it certainly piques curiosity. One wonders if the lagering process will ever be a friend to hops, and on the basis of this, I remain unswayed. That’s not to say it’s a bad beer – far from it, actually. It is unquestionably Golden, pleasantly spritzy and full of life, and with a decent nose of Peach and Lime. Lager? Yes, in much the same way as my old friend Monsieur Rock, although with a lot more body. Clean on the finish? Certainly, and with creamy malt in the body giving some ooomph behind all the citrus going on elsewhere – in fact, there’s plenty of character for a beer with a relatively low abv.

I just can’t find the IPA in it, that’s all.

Willams Brothers remain, in my opinion, one of the most underrated breweries in the UK – Solid, beers of quality with a questing eye for tasty one-offs like this make for a very reputable mix these days. CA is a good beer, and well-deserving of a place in the roster alongside other gems such as Joker IPA and 7 Giraffes.

Those wonderful chaps (and chapesses) at Durham created a fair old storm when they announced that they had created a White Stout. Cue discussion in the Beery world, and a serious challenge to our ideas of Stout. ‘Stout’ , they argued, ‘…Is just a term for Strong beer, and so this is a White Stout‘. Or a Golden Stout. Or Pale Stout, perhaps.

I’m quite happy to go with this, simply because I don’t know any better, and it sounds rational to me. Of course, White Stout (7.2%abv) happily backs up all the excitement with bags of flavour. It’s unmistakably strong; sweetly malty and marmalade-citrus in the body and then finishing very, very bitter with a diamond-sharp spicy edge. There’s a Belgian-esque fruity funk (pear drops?) in the nose, which gives you some idea that what lurks under that clean-as-a-cloud white head is complex and for sipping and pondering. If you like Bombay 106, then you’ll befriend White Stout.

Strip all the hype away and you’ve got another excellent strong ale from the guys who I regard as masters of that style. Twitter launches, tastings in bars and launching a beer like this is only an example of how a brewery can connect with it’s drinkers. Why not herald a new beer on all fronts, create a buzz and, yes, hype?

Thank god Durham could back it up with a tasty beer. Now, who wants to brew a Golden Porter, or Black IPA? Oh, hang on…

Borek with Hawkshead Lakeland Lager

Borek are a very simple, very tasty, little Turkish treat you can knock up in no time if you’re in the mood for something unfussy to enjoy with a few good beers.

You’ll want to make a sharp little tomato sauce to enjoy with them, and if you do this first, then that’s the main job done. Simply put about a third of a pint of Passata in a saucepan, add a swirl of Olive Oil, a dash or two of Tabasco, 2 cloves of Garlic (minced), a pinch of Salt, Sugar and a good grind of Black Pepper. Finally, add a little Basil. Stir, bring to a high simmer and then either turn off or continue simmering very, very low – depending if you want to watch it or not.

For the Borek, first make the filling. In a bowl, crumble half a block of Feta, add a few shavings of Parmigiano Reggiano or another hard, sharp cheese, a large handful of chopped, fresh Dill, a grind of Black Pepper, some chopped, fresh Mint and about 200g of Chopped Prawns. Cook the prawns first, leave to cool, and roughly chop into pieces.

You’ll need some Filo Pastry – the ready-made packs are the ticket, and each pack will have about 6 layers in it. Take 3, and lay out. Cut a long rectangle, lay the filling in the middle and then roll like a sausage. You’ll need some melted butter and a brush to hand to seal the edges, and then pinch and seal each end. It is a little fiddly, I won’t lie, but it’s worth it. Simply repeat until you’ve got nothing left.

Once all done, brush with butter, place into a hot oven (200c) and bake for about 10 minutes – they don’t take long – but once browned on one side, flip (carefully) and re-baste, then watch again. When the pastry is gold, you’re done. If you want – and can – then you could deep-fry these.

You’ll be surprised how much flavour is packed into these little cigars. Crisp pastry, then soft, salty cheese, with little nuggets of Prawn within – and the Dill goes so well with those flavours. Don’t like Prawns? Then leave them out, and just have cheese.

 

To drink, something light and crisp will do the trick – Hawkshead’s Lakeland Lager (5%abv). fits the bill. Spritzy, gold in hue and with a vaguely peppery, green note on the nose, the body is zingy with lemon and lime with a little tangerine as it finishes. It maintains a good, malty-biscuit body. It’s simply too easy to drink, and maintains good flavour when chilled. Buy more than one – you’ll need them. Serve with the dip, some good music and conversation, and pour yourself a beer.

Marble’s Old Manchester

My last post touched upon collaboration between two free-wheeling, young UK Breweries in Dark Star and Marble. Saison – very much a style in vogue right now – was the result of that experiment, reflecting both the style and tastes of right now. The other Marble collaboration beer I’ve enjoyed recently proves that when the young and old guard come together, the results can be even more interesting – and again, entirely apt. ESB, anyone?

In my eyes, Fullers are a UK Brewing leviathan, yet manage to hold on to critical acclaim as well as maintaining the size and outlook of an undeniably ‘Macro’ business. Experiments such as Past Masters showcase the wealth of brewing knowledge and finesse at John Keeling’s fingertips and remain must-haves – whilst new releases such as Black Cab pique interest enough for you to seek them out over the bar.

…and so, Keeling – a native Mancunian – knocked up Marble one morning and they set out creating Old Manchester, an ESB that carries hallmarks of both breweries. Somehow – and it could be entirely placebo effect – OM feels new yet old, traditional yet exciting. Most importantly, it’s tremendously satisfying.

At 7.3% abv, it’s no slouch in the ‘warming’ stakes, and is a brilliantly bright, Amber ESB. Sugary, sweet Candied-Peel notes mingle with firm Maltiness in the nose and body – but there’s a cheeky undercurrent of fruity, lively yeastiness rippling beneath it.

The taste is clean; all the flavours arrive in sequence. Digestive Biscuit, Raisin, Caramel and Fudge, then getting drier with more Marmalade and Orange/Tangerine pith. You just keep drinking it; it’s eminently smooth and slips down too easily. It’s a pleasure to drink and another fine example of the spirit of brotherhood, fraternity and collaboration that our Brewing industry enjoys so much.

My only regret is that instead of sitting a home, feet up and a film on, I wasn’t enjoying this on cask in the opulent bustle of The Marble Arch on a Saturday lunchtime, a cheeseboard in front of me and good conversation accompanying. That’s something I’ll certainly have to rectify.

For a little insight to the beer, jump over to Des De Moor’s page.

Marble / Dark Star Saison Special

Towards the end of last year, I headed over to Manchester to do a spot of judging at the SIBA North event, along with Rob and Dean Pugh of Foley’s fame. A good day was had by all, and at one point I found myself sitting at a table with, amongst others, Mark Tranter of Dark Star. I obviously didn’t let on that I knew who he was – as I have previous, calamitous history when meeting people I admire (when you see me next, ask me about my cringeworthy the-time-I-met-Sam-Beam story). Anyway, during the course of that round, he revealed he’d been doing ‘some brewing’ whilst up here, and left it at that.

Turns out that’s just another example of Mark’s self-deprecating nature. I’m assuming now, of course, that he was actually over at Marble (who else) creating this interesting, tasty take on Saison. Special 2011 (9%) is a tasty one alright, Ember-Amber in colour, and with a pleasingly thick, billowy head that bursts and pops, releasing sweet bubblegum/Juicy Fruit notes as it does so. Drinking it, there’s that cutting, pithy, citrus aspect that provides refreshment and an intake of breath, which is swallowed up eventually by more honeyed sweetness.

For a Saison, it’s not light at all; it’s a big, boozy beer with tonnes of depth and sweetness that’s perfect for sharing about and savouring. I craved a cheeseboard whilst drinking it (something that Steve over at Beers I’ve Known did with great success here). As the offspring between two of the UK’s best brewers it’s tasty, complex and suitably boozy. Both should be pretty darn pleased.

If you see any about (and you might be lucky now) then don’t hesitate to pick one up.

Marble Dunkel: A Dunkel For All Seasons

DUNKEL.

No fuss, no pretence, a plain statement in white letters carrying no more story than simply stating what sits behind the label and a powerful alcohol content. What more does one need, anyway?  This is all the Dunkel you need today, and it’s one for all seasons.

DUNKEL. 

From Marble, a slightly off-centre offering. Very nice it is too, and much like the label, it’s no-nonsense. Caramel-dark, super-smooth in the body, although missing a huge, edifying head to push through. There’s a nice whiff of alcohol in the nose, and all those estery, banana notes you want and being mentally ticked off. There’s a really interesting, fruit-bubblegum note running through it, which makes it an interesting, Northern take on the classic.

Stay tuned for a mini-Marble-marathon this week.

Wensleydale Coverdale Poacher IPA

There’s a theme that I’ve returned to before about writing a beer, or a brewery off. We all do it; some of us after a couple of failed attempts; bad pints served in perhaps bad places by bad staff, leaving a bad taste in your mouth. Some of us, including myself, have sipped and drained, vowing never to buy again, cutting that brewery off without so much as a second chance.

Obviously, as I get older and (hopefully) wiser, I’m trying to curb this behaviour. Life is, as they say, too short to drink bad beer – but it’s also too short not to give second chances out.  A brewer once told me (I think it was James Farran from Summer Wine) that ‘There’s no such thing as bad beer; only bad gyles’ , and I understand that now.

Mentally, I have a little black book of breweries who crank out beer that’s either poor or not to my taste; a few years ago, this was running at about ten. Now, there’s only one who I can think of who I generally steer well clear of after repeated blown chances.

My first encounter with Wensleydale’s Coverdale Poacher was a good few years ago, both in bottle and on cask within a month of each other, and both resulted in a thin, only-slightly-refreshing beer. No real body, no real life. A lack of taste I can almost deal with; a lack of life (zest, spritz, spark, liveliness in taste, whatever you want to call it) I cannot. So, that was that.

Then, a short while ago, Wensleydale again popped up in my life, in sort-of-spooky circumstances. I was enjoying a boozy Monday night with a well-known Leeds Pub manager and a certain Spectral blogger, who, when asked what was good these days, replied ‘Wensleydale’s beers are really good at the moment’. Eyebrows were raised, advice was taken and noted.

Then- that weekend – my wife picked up a beer that was reserved for me from a highly regarded Leeds Beer retailer, and decided to cram a few more treats into my delivery; because she’s good like that.  Picking purely on her well-tested strategy of ‘Beers whose labels I don’t recognise from Leigh’s stupid Beer Cupboard‘ she happened to choose Wensleydale’s Coverdale Poacher (5%abv). When I saw it, nestling amongst the other treats like a Cuckoo’s egg, I laughed, explained the story, and cracked it open there and then.

And yes, I was an idiot. Something has changed for sure, and this could be a classic example of brewer’s evolution that Boak and Bailey spoke about of late. Clear as a bell, burnished gold, with a slightly yeasty note to the aroma underneath waves of Mango and Orange. On the sip, the body of the beer was smooth and robust – pleasantly sweet – and finish is high, dry, and bitter enough to back up its claims of IPA. At ‘only’ 5%, it’s certainly a UK interpretation of IPA rather than the US hop-bombs that are the benchmark these days; but it’s a lovely, lovely beer. It manages the required assertiveness without overpowering, and remains entirely drinkable. It’s just a drinkable, pleasurable beer. Period.

Well done, Wensleydale. You’ve proved me and my stupid ideals wrong. I’ll have another, please.

Indian – Spiced Lamb Chops

Lamb Chops, laden with lip-zinging spice and oozing with sweet,greasy fat are one of the main reasons I go to Curryhouses. Don’t get me wrong – I’m all for Curry – but these little morsels are the thing I really look forward to – n0; crave – in the hours leading up to the meal.

So, I’ve spent years trying to recreate the taste at home. Of course, this is nigh on impossible without a barbecue, because you don’t get that blackened, woody char that is required of really good spiced lamb chops. Even a griddle pan doesn’t quite do it. What you can do, however, is come up with perfectly passable, tender, spicy meat that’s perfect finger food and a meal in itself if you make enough of them.

It’s really all about the spices. There are as many combinations of spice mix as people making it, so here’s mine. Firstly, marination is the key. You’ve got get those spices into the meat. So, put your chops (feel free to bat out and tenderise first) in a large bowl and add: a little oil (Groundnut is good), a generous dollop of Tomato puree, Ground Black Pepper, Fenugreek, Garam Masala, Fresh Coriander, 4 cloves of Garlic, 2 chopped fresh Chillies (or dried chilli flakes), a pinch of Garlic salt, chopped fresh Coriander ,a pinch of Celery Salt, Cumin and Turmeric.

I also add a large pinch of a spice mix that was bought for me called Panch Phoran. It’s really good and worth tracking down. Wikipedia says it’s a blend of Fenugreek, Nigella, Cumin Seed, Radhuni and Celery Seed. If there was one ingredient I would recommend you definitely use its Fenugreek – so underrated in these sorts of dishes yet really make a difference.

You’ll note I’ve not provided exact measurements. This is simply because you should make whatever is to your taste. This is the blend that I use, but if you want more garlic and less chilli, go for it. Anyway, rub all the spices into the lamb – brutally – and cover in cling film and leave in the fridge overnight.

To cook, simply grill in a hot, hot grill for about five minutes on each side. You want the meat ever-so-slightly pink. Your kitchen will smell awesome for days and you’ll find it nigh on impossible to eat these without a smile on your face.

To drink, I plumped for a Dark Bohemia Regent (4.4%abv). Although not the most complex of Dark Lagers on its own, I find that it can be chilled down nicely, yet still retains some caramel/roasted notes. That plum-black, mollasses-led heart of the beer works really well with the spices, and offer something a little more than just dousing the flames of raw chilli that Pale Ales and Lagers sometimes do. Dark beers and red-meat curries are a really good match – give it a try!

Sweet Treats & Beer, Brooklyn Invasion

Ok, a bit of shameless self-promotion is coming your way. As Zak explains on his blog, I’m collaborating with Beer-Ritz next month to try and get beer – through food  - out to an audience old and new. So, on February the 6th, I’ll be setting up stall in the shop, with a little array of baked goods and some samples of beers that you can enjoy with them.

The menu is always subject to change (if I have any kitchen disasters the day before, for example), but I plan on taking a Vanilla Cheesecake (which will be matched with a Stout, Porter or Dark Mild), Chocolate Brownies (which will be matched with fruit beers) and Banana and Toffee Muffins (which we are going to try with a Dunkel).

It’s free, informal, and if you’re curious about Beer and Food, then this is the opportunity for you to come to Leeds’s specialist beer shop (I hear Ghostie will be my trusty wingman, Iceman to my Maverick) and talk to staff about where to start. The point isn’t to show off my baking skills (Honestly!) but to try and expand the reach of Good Beer and Good Food beyond the beer-blogging fraternity. That, after all, is what we are about, no?

Hopefully, this will be the first on a series of nights where local food producers and Beer-Ritz can come together and share their expertise. Stay tuned for more details as the year rolls on.

People of Leeds – it’s all systems go in February. Revolutions Brewery will be taking over Foley’s on February the 10th, and our Milk Stout (Milk & Alcohol) has been brewed, fermented and is ready for your attention. I can assure you that Dean, myself and the lads from Revs slaved over a hot mash tun all day with only a bellyful of Pork Pies and 80′s New Wave Classics (Belouis Some, anyone?) blasting out of the brewery in order to bring you this delicious beer. Details are on the previous link above. Do come and join us, if Music and Beer is your thing. Love Music, Love Beer.

 

Finally, there’s a bit of an Invasion of the Brooklyn-Snatchers happening at North on February the 1st. Expect to see a myriad of Brooklyn’s finest on tap and in bottles; including rarities such as Blast, Winter, Monster, Pennant (my main ‘tick’ for the night) and another, mythical beer that, if you look closely enough on their poster, you’ll be able to try. Do pop down.

National Winter Ales Festival 2012: The Winners

 

 

OK, just a quick one to spread the word about the proud winners of the National Winter Ales Festival that’s just been held in Manchester this week.

Cornish brewer Driftwood took top prize with  Alfie’s Revenge – it’s refreshing to see a beer that’s travelled so far take the top accolade. Honourable mentions also go to Cairngorm, Coniston and Hammerpot. Anyway, here are the winners in full:

Old Ales and Strong Milds category
Gold- Driftwood, Alfie’s Revenge (St Agnes, Cornwall)
Joint Silver- Nant, Mwnci Nell (Llanrwst, Conwy)
Joint Silver- Brunswick, Black Sabbath (Derby, Derbyshire)
Bronze- Beowulf, Dark Raven (Brownhills, Staffordshire)

Porters category
Gold- Hammerpot, Bottle Wreck Porter (Poling, West Sussex)
Silver- Blythe, Johnson’s (Hamstall Ridware, Staffordshire)
Bronze- Sulwath, Black Galloway (Castle Douglas, Dumfries and Galloway)

Stouts category
Gold- Cairngorm, Black Gold (Aviemore, Highlands)
Silver- Cambridge Moonshine, Black Hole Stout (Fulbourn, Cambridgeshire)
Bronze- Acorn, Gorlovka (Wombwell, South Yorkshire)

Barley Wines category
Gold- Coniston, No 9 Barley Wine (Coniston, Cumbria)
Silver- Moor, Old Freddy Walker (Pitney, Somerset)
Bronze- Isle of Skye, Cuillin Beast (Uig, Isle of Skye)

OVERALL result
Gold- Driftwood, Alfie’s Revenge (St Agnes, Cornwall)
Silver- Cairngorm, Black Gold (Aviemore, Highlands)
Bronze- Coniston, No 9 Barley Wine (Coniston, Cumbria)

I couldn’t get the time this week to attend – which is a shame as I always enjoy it – but here’s an excellent account of the day from Beersay.